INGENIOUS NOMADIC EXPRESSIONS: DECODING THE SEMIOTICS OF LAMBANI EMBROIDERY

Abstract [English]

The visual language and narrative of a traditional embroidery is par excellence . It carries with it folklores which have transcended from generation to generation with its exquisiteness. One such embroidery is of the Lambanis or the Banjaras, also referred to as the Indian Gypsies. Their embroidery connotes a semiotic system for communicating and interpreting various colours, patterns, stitches, surface embellishments and it has within it a hidden language that is made up of a collection of cultural symbols that communicate on various social and psychological levels.
Embroidery is a complete language connoting a semiotic system for communicating and interpreting various colours, patterns, stitches, surface embellishments. The Lambanis have inherited a rich folk tradition of embroidery with exquisite patterns and a voluminous stitch vocabulary. The surface additives added to their embroidery incorporate myriad elements like the mirror(shisha), shells(cowries), beads, applique work, rustic coins, and metal buttons. The exceptional and meticulous utilization of these create a story par excellence. The surface additives utilized in the Lambani culture connotes various aspects of their culture and though used as an extra element along with the embroidery their function is beyond ornamentation and carry several meanings.
This paper is an attempt by the researcher to understand, interpret and decode the reasons behind incorporating these surface additives in the embroidery to finally create a masterpiece. The paper also extrapolates on the researcher’s travel experiences to various pockets of India where the Lambanis have settled and her inferences of their embroidery in terms of the embellishments, stiches, patterns, and finesse.